Piz Bernina, 4049 m: over the famous Biancograt

Switzerland - Europe

Piz Bernina, 4049 m, Graubünden, Schweiz - Piz Bernina, 4049 m, Graubünden, Schweiz
17.06 - 28.07.2024
The Biancograt on the Piz Bernina, 4049 m, is probably the most famous firn and ridge tour in the Alps. The aesthetic edge offers everything that makes the heart of a passionate mountaineer beat faster: exposed firn and rock passageways, breathtaking views and an impressive view. A must for all enthusiastic mountaineers!
Climbing over the so-called Himmelsleiter Biancograt on the only four-thousander in the Eastern Alps is certainly one of the most famous routes in the Alps. What luck to be able to experience this tour!

Your advantages at a glance:

- Ascent of the Piz Bernina over the famous Biancograt, crossing of the Piz Palü
- objective safe tour in solid rock and over exposed ridges
- 1 guest per guide for optimal care and maximum security
- Spectacular panoramic view
- We are at home in Grisons, here we know each other!

This tour can be booked on timely booking as a private tour on any date!


Thomas Villars
Certified Mountain Guide IFMGA and Snow Sports Instructor with Federal Certificate of higher vocational Education und Training


CHF 1799.-   (per person / 1 Participants)

Including guide fare and guide fees.
Exclusive overnight stay, half board and transport costs.


Mountain and high alpine touring scale
AD assez difficile
Climbing Scale UIAA / French Scale
Requirements Physical condition on foot
Excellent fitness  

Mountaineering experience, very good condition, climbing experience in the 3rd degree of difficulty in the climb, surefootedness, very large experience in walking and climbing with crampons.


Ascent of the Piz Bernina, 4049 m, over the famous Bianco ridge to Rifugio Marco e Rosa. On the second day, crossing the Piz Palü, 3900 m, to the Diavolezza.

1st day: Meeting point at 6 pm in the Chamanna da Tschierva, 2584 m. Dinner together and discussion of the tour.

2nd day: We follow the so called Biancoweg until we reach the right arm of the Vadret da Tschierva over the seracs. Climb over the glacier and some rocks to the foot of Fuorcla Prievlusa, which we either reach via the steep snow and firn flanks or via the via ferrata. Here begins the actual ridge, which we follow, first in rock, later in ice until the beginning of the Biancogrates. The famous Himmelsleiter leads us almost equally steeply to the Piz Bianco, 3995 m. Here the climbing begins over the partly exposed ridge and the Gratturm, until we reach the summit of the Piz Bernina, 4049 m. Lucky to be up here! After the summit rest and enjoy the fantastic view, the descent over the Spallagrat to the Rifugio Marco e Rosa, 3597 m. Here we enjoy the deserved rest with a good glass of wine with cheese and bresaola, the Valtellina dried meat specialty. Ascent time approx. 6 to 7 hours, total walking time approx. 8 to 9 hours.

3rd day: After the ascent to Bellavista Terrace we walk to Fuorcla Bellavista, 3688 m, where the crossing of Piz Palü, 3900 m, begins. The first part of the ascent to the west summit is completely in the rock, but offers no significant difficulties. Continue on the partially exposed ridge over the main and eastern summit and descent on the east ridge and the Vadret Pers to Diavolezza, 2973 m. Here we enjoy a final drink, then individual journey home. Ascent time approx. 4 hours, total walking time approx. 6 to 7 hours.


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Additional Informationen
Member of the Swiss Alpine Club
For offers with hotel accommodation (if possible)
Experience in alpinism
Rental material (only indicate with a cross if the equipment is needed)
Equipment for winter tours
Climbing equipment
Equipment for high-altitude tours

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