Piz Palü, 3900 m: via the east pillar to the east summit

Switzerland - Europe

Piz Palü, 3900 m, Ostpfeiler des Ostgipfels - Piz Palü, 3900 m, Ostpfeiler des Ostgipfels
06.07 - 08.09.2024
The silver palace Piz Palü with its three peaks and pillars is undoubtedly one of the most imposing and beautiful mountain creatures in the Alps. Three mighty pillars lead through the north face to the eastern, main and west summits.
The three pillars are often named after their first comers Kuffner, Bumiller and Zippert. We climb the east pillar to the eastern summit, which offers the objectively safest ascent via one of the three pillars. This is one of the most beautiful climbs in the whole of the Bernina massif, as the rocks are compact and the difficulties are even.

Your advantages at a glance:

- Ascent of the Piz Palü over the east pillar of the eastern summit, one of the most beautiful tours in the entire Bernina massif
- objectively safe tour in solid rock
- 1 guest per guide for optimal care and maximum security
- stimulating climbing in good rock
- we are at home in Grisons, here we know each summit by heart!

This tour can be booked as a private tour on any date!


Thomas Villars
Certified Mountain Guide IFMGA and Snow Sports Instructor with Federal Certificate of higher vocational Education und Training

Guest reviews

"Lieber Thomas

Es war super schön und eindrucksvoll, zwei abwechslungsreiche Touren!

Danke dir fürs Führen und die Gesellschaft, ich habe mich sehr wohl gefühlt mit dir.

Ich wünsche dir weiterhin tolle Touren und beruflich drücke ich dir die Daumen.

Wir sehen uns bestimmt wieder, ob beim Klettern oder einer Hochtour.

Liebe Grüsse



CHF 1090.-   (per person / 1 Participants)

Including guide fare and guide fees.
Exclusive overnight stay, half board and transport costs.


Mountain and high alpine touring scale
AD assez difficile
Climbing Scale UIAA / French Scale
Requirements Physical condition on foot
Very good physical condition  

Mountaineering experience, good physical condition, climbing experience in the 3rd degree of difficulty in the climb, surefootedness, experience in climbing with crampons.


Ascent of the Piz Palü, 3900 m, over the east pillar of the eastern summit.

Day 1: Meeting point at 6 pm at the reception of Berghaus Diavolezza, 2973 m. Dinner together in the stylish ambience and discussion of the tour.

Day 2: In the dark we leave the mountain house and follow the path around the Piz Trovat almost to the Fuorcla d'Arlas, where we enter the Pers glacier. At about 3300 meters above sea level, we turn to the foot of the east pillar. The first meters in the rock to the edge of the ridge provide a first key point in the compact but flat rock. Once on the ridge we enjoy the solid rock and the uniform difficulty. The view of the Bumillerpfeiler and the Piz Cambrena and the wild hanging glaciers will inspire us. The second key point at the distinctive tower upswing heralds the end of the difficulties. Finally we climb over the narrow Firngrat directly to the eastern summit, 3882 m, and continue over the exposed ridge to the main summit, 3900 meters above sea level. What a view! The descent takes us back to the eastern summit and on via the east ridge and the Pers glacier to Diavolezza, where we can toast with a final drink on our tour! Ascent time approx. 5 to 6 hours, total walking time approx. 8 to 9 hours.


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Additional Informationen
Member of the Swiss Alpine Club
For offers with hotel accommodation (if possible)
Experience in alpinism
Rental material (only indicate with a cross if the equipment is needed)
Equipment for winter tours
Climbing equipment
Equipment for high-altitude tours

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