Piz Morteratsch, 3751 m: over the Spraunzagrat

Switzerland - Europe

Piz Morteratsch, 3751 m, Graubünden, Schweiz - Piz Morteratsch, 3751 m, Graubünden, Schweiz
24.06 - 15.09.2024
The Piz Morteratsch is the most beautiful panoramic mountain in the region and stands in the middle of the Bernina massif. The most spectacular route leads in varied climbing over the Spraunza ridge directly to the summit.
The view of the famous Bianco ridge on Piz Bernina and the view of the many spectacular peaks in the Alpine Festival Hall rightly make it a much-visited summit destination.

Piz Morteratsch shows two completely different faces. On the oval side, the summit ice field forms a mighty ice balcony with two distinct rocky ridges, of which we climb the left one, the Crasta da la Spraunza. From the Tschierva side, the summit is less impressive and exclusively rocky.

Your advantages at a glance:

- Ascent of Piz Morteratsch via the spectacular Speraunza ridge
- objectively relatively safe tour in mostly solid rock
- maximum 1 guest per guide for optimal care and maximum safety
- spectacular panoramic and deep view
- we are at home in Graubünden, we know our way around here!

This tour can be booked as a private tour on any date!


Thomas Villars
Certified Mountain Guide IFMGA and Snow Sports Instructor with Federal Certificate of higher vocational Education und Training


CHF 1090.-   (per person / 1 Participants)

Including mountain guide tariff and mountain guide expenses.
Excluding overnight stay, half board and transport costs.

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Mountain and high alpine touring scale
AD assez difficile
Climbing Scale UIAA / French Scale
Requirements Physical condition on foot
Very good physical condition  

Experience in alpine touring, good physical condition, climbing experience in the 3rd degree of difficulty in the descents, surefootedness, experience in crampon walking.


Ascent of Piz Morteratsch, 3751 m, via the east-northeast ridge, the Spraunza ridge.

Planned programme:

1st day: Meeting at 18.00 at the Chamanna da Boval, 2495 m. Dinner together and discussion of the tour.

Day 2: Via the Gianda Boval, steep grass and scree fields, we reach the entrance to the ridge. The first part in a steep gully can still be wet and uncomfortable to climb, depending on the conditions. At about 3100 meters above sea level, the actual ridge begins with varied climbing. At the ridge tower halfway up, a short abseil follows, and already the last pitches lead us to the ice balcony at approximately 3650 metres above sea level. The last meters in the steep snow and firm lead us directly to the summit, where we enjoy the fantastic view! The descent over the steep summit ice field leads us past the Fuorcla da Boval and over the Vadrettin da Tschierva and a steep path in rock and scree to the Chamanna da Tschierva, 2584 m. A final drink together on the terrace and individual descent into the valley.
Ascent time about 6 hours, total walking time about 9 hours.



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Additional Informationen
Member of the Swiss Alpine Club
For offers with hotel accommodation (if possible)
Experience in alpinism
Rental material (only indicate with a cross if the equipment is needed)
Equipment for winter tours
Climbing equipment
Equipment for high-altitude tours

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